We all know that feeling - you’ve spotted a particularly beautiful piece of jewellery and you just have to have it. You might even be able to persuade yourself that you actually really need it. After all, isn’t beauty an essential part of life? What you don’t want to do before you make your purchase however, is to have to reach for a dictionary to find out what you’re buying. If the term gold vermeil (pronounced ver-may) leaves you flummoxed, read on. We’ve got all the answers to your questions...
Is gold vermeil the same as gold plating?
This doesn’t sound helpful, but the short answer is ‘Yes and No’. Let me explain: gold vermeil is a type of gold plating. Gold plating is a technique that sees a thin coating of gold layered over another, cheaper metal. This allows you to have the look of gold at a fraction of the price.
The crucial difference, however, is that vermeil is subject to certain rules and standards - making it a far superior type of gold plating. This means that you end up with a piece of jewellery that looks better, is hypoallergenic, more durable, safer to clean and easier to repair.
What is gold vermeil?
Gold vermeil is a plating process which sees a layer of at least 10ct gold, no less than 2.5 microns thick, laid over 92.5% sterling silver. If any of these rules are not met then the piece does not qualify as vermeil.
The high purity of the gold and silver means that your piece will be hypoallergenic, as it is free of nasties like nickel or brass that cause metal allergies. All plating eventually wears down, but as gold vermeil is generally five times thicker than traditional gold plating, this means your piece will continue to look its best for far longer.
So how is gold plating different from gold vermeil?
Traditional gold plating does not have to follow the same rules as gold vermeil. Often, to save costs, the jeweller will use a cheaper base metal like copper or an alloy like brass. There are no rules around the standard of the gold and the plating only needs to be 0.5 microns thick. This does mean that your piece will be cheaper, but it also means that it will wear incredibly quickly and if you suffer from metal allergies you’re likely to regret your choice even more.
Why choose gold vermeil over gold plating?
The main advantage to gold plating is the slightly cheaper cost. This might make sense if you are buying jewellery based on flash-in-the pan trends. But if you want jewellery that will continue to look good for more than a few months then we recommend vermeil as the only suitable choice.
But what about gold filled jewellery?
Just when you think you’ve got the jargon down, there’s another term thrown at you! And confusingly, gold filled does the opposite of what you might think it does. Gold filled jewellery actually means that a layer of gold has been laid on top of another metal.
On the plus side this gold layer is thicker than the one found on gold vermeil. The crucial downside, though, is that the underlying metal for gold filled jewellery is usually of very low quality. Vermeil is so prized because of its use of sterling silver. For jewellers vermeil is also easier to work with, which means better, more intricate jewellery and simpler repairs.
Is gold vermeil sustainable?
If you care about the planet, vermeil is definitely the way to go! It’s unlikely you’ll be wearing your traditional gold plated jewellery for many years as it loses its plating relatively quickly. This means you’ll be stuck on the treadmill of fast fashion and the waste it produces. Unfortunately these pieces are difficult to recycle due to their mix of metals.
Vermeil, with its much thicker layer of gold, lasts much longer and is the perfect option for those of us who want to move away from disposable fashion. As it is made of just two base metals, silver and gold, vermeil is also far easier to repair and recycle.
How long will my gold vermeil jewellery last?
As we’ve mentioned above, the thicker plating on your gold vermeil piece means that it is much more hard wearing than gold plated jewellery. Of course, the length of time your piece stays looking as good as new has a lot to do with how often you wear it and how well you look after it.
Can I get my gold vermeil jewellery wet?
No metal really enjoys getting wet - the minerals and deposits in tap water, swimming pools and the ocean can all degrade your jewellery over time. Additionally, showering or bathing with your jewellery on can expose it to chemicals in soaps and shampoos that can have a negative effect on your piece.
We know that it can be a pain sometimes, but we really do advise taking your jewellery off before you swim or shower if you want to keep it looking its best for as long as possible. Don’t panic though! The occasional swim or bath with your jewellery on should not cause disaster! Just try to remember to dry it well.
How should I clean my gold vermeil jewellery?
In a word: gently. The best way to clean your piece of jewellery is to wipe it carefully with a clean polishing cloth. Don’t rub it too hard and don’t get any liquid on it. Additionally you could store it in its own pouch to keep it away from dirt and avoid it scraping against other pieces.
Is gold vermeil jewellery worth it?
Absolutely! When it comes to jewellery that gives you that gorgeous golden glow, is high quality, long lasting - but doesn’t break the bank - you can’t do better than gold vermeil! At Roqua we want our beautifully crafted pieces to become your long lasting favourites and that’s why we’ve chosen to use this beautiful technique.
Written By, Emma Martin